St John [EC1]

Here I am again, the morning after another nose-to-tail debauch, my pie-stuffed belly pressed uncomfortably against the edge of the desk, ready to write glowing prose about St John.

In a week filled with delicious, celebratory, carnivorous meals, St John has still managed to hold the throne as the best meatery in London. Rules... Simpson's... J. Sheekey... Smiths... all delicious, but there's only one St. John. [Actually, there are two, but you get me, right?]

Last night, the three intrepid diners shared starters:  Roast Middlewaite and Chutney (delicious), Beetroot, Boiled Egg and Anchovy (I actually passed on this one - I have a thing about anchovy 'bones'. I'm weird.) and a Green Salad (mock not - best green salad in London! Practically meaty!).

For the main course, we had an order of the Bone Marrow and the unbelievable Steak and Kidney Pie. The Pie is intended to serve two, but, in this case, I ate the entire thing while everyone else was distracted with the Marrow. Sure, the Bone Marrow is great, but PIE!

The Pie is actually baked (and served) with a bone marrow 'chimney' rising out of the center. This keeps the crust crispy, as well as looking really neat.

Desserts included the Blackberry Ice Cream (soft and creamy), the Strawberry Sorbet and Vodka (a bit tangier than usual) and a half-dozen of the Madeleines. The Madeleines are well worth the fifteen minute wait (we devoured them in less than that many seconds) - I'd suggest ordering a dozen in the future.

As always, the service was impeccable and the restaurant was packed with appreciative diners. The bakery on the ground floor smells terrific as well. My only possible complaint would be the noise - this is the second time we've been there where the cheerful babble of enthusiastic eaters has made conversation difficult. I'd suggest sneakily dining at off-hours to avoid the crowd, but the daily specials go very, very rapidly - don't risk missing the pie.

Courtesy of Simon - an interview with the man himself, Fergus Henderson.

St John (Smithfield)
26 St John Street
EC1M 4AY
0207 251 0848
web site

Comments

[Dan]

Jared. The word 'salad' appears twice in this post. Twice.

This is The Carnivore Project. Not The Herbivore's Picnic.

Do that again and I'm cancelling my (figurative) subscription.

[Dan]

PS I'm VERY happy that St John is back. I've gotta get me some of that pie.

[Lebowski]

Bone marrow chimney?

Man, i miss St Johns. Any chance you can send me a pie over or something?

[Anne]

Don't forget, Dan, that "salad" at St. John is four enormous bones filled with marrow, with a bit of parsley and some capers sprinkled on top.